final toile

These are more images of the final toile, this time with the wrap in use as a wind break, rather than flat accross the jacket. The back view shows were the ends will sit if they are buttoned/fastened to the backs of the shoulders.

final toile!

This shows the third toile of the collar, which is finally almost just right. I added an extension to the sides of the collar that can either overlap at the front, or be left hanging down. Not sure how it will fasten yet, but I'd like to use something that isn't too bulky or intrusive. A less obvious change made to this collar is that the undercollar has been cut on the bias rather than straight grain, allowing it to roll over nicely.

The wrap is shown here as it will sit flat against the jacket. Originally the wrap was intended to be buttoned at the ends above the jet pockets, but in order to be long enough to wrap around the neck sufficiently, it now hangs to long to button here. Instead of moving the buttoning location, the wrap is just going to hang freely, so it can sit where it naturally falls. It may still need a button or two to fasten to itself where it crosses over at the front, to prevent it from flying around when the wearer is walking along. There is a seam in the centre-back of the wrap, where it is hidden, because the pattern piece was too long to cut from the fabric in one piece.

collar number two

This is the new collar for the jacket. It has been opened up by slashing and opening the pattern piece, and I brought it further around to the front. I am really happy with this shape and I think it sits really nicely when folded down or up.

I also took the sleeves apart and reassembled them with more useful notches on them this time! Now they are sitting nicely too, but I still need to put a bit more easing into the sleeve head.

collar number one

These are photos of the collar on my first toile. I was really not happy with this shape for the collar, it just looks like a rectangle hanging down the back. It needs to be more spread out accross the back shoulders, so that when it is up as a wind break it curls around the neck more. It also needs to come around much further past the shoulder seam towards the front.

first toile

This is the first toile of my jacket. I'm really happy with the fit and the overall shape. The stretch parts in the sleeves seem to work really well, but I think I may have put the sleeve in wrongly somehow, because the undersleeve seam seems to be quite high.

design

This is the design that I am going to start drafting my patterns from. I am putting stretch inserts into the elbows and around the lower part of the armholes. There is a wide collar at the back that can roll down against the jacket, with the wrap/lapel piece separate, sitting underneath it and crossing over at the front of the body, buttoning to the jacket above the jet pockets. When needed for protection against the wind, the collar stands up, and the wrap wraps around it, buttoning to the jacket on the back of each shoulder. The jacket will also have internal pockets for secure storage of passport, wallet, etc. and a double vent at the back, increasing the freedom of movement.

In these sketches I am looking at the movement function of the jacket. I found that the areas that need the most movement are the arms, which need to be able to move backwards and forwards and bend with ease, making climbing steep stairs and hills more comfortable.

I first looked at using pleats and fullness in the elbow and sleeve head areas in ways that would allow the jacket to expand and contract when needed.

I then moved on to the idea of having stretch inserts in the jacket, allowing for movement, without having to change the entire silhouette of the garment. I also considered having stretch inserts in the back seams of the garment, to put a bit of give accross the back, however I think that the stretch in the armholes would make this unnecessary.

Starting with the jacket for travelling to Paris, I first decided what the key functions needed to be:

1. Movement - it is important that the wearer of the jacket feels that they can move freely without being restrained by it.

2. Wind break - to provide warmth and protection when up high, for example on top of the Eiffel Tower or at Montmartre/Sacre Coeur.

3. Storage compartments - for secure storage of important items such as passport, wallet, etc.

4. Comfort - while travelling for a long period of time (on a plane, train, bus, etc.)

In these sketches I am looking solely at the function of the wind break, focusing on solving one element of the jacket at a time. The idea is to have some kind of collar/piece that can be wrapped around the neck when needed, or can sit flat accross the jacket out of the way when not in use.

research pages

These are a few pages from my visual diary, showing some research into the functions for my jacket. I have decided that the 5 jacket designs are going to be drawn from travelling to 5 different cities from 5 different continents. This means that they will all have something vital in common (travel) but at the same time they will all need different functions.

The cities I have chosen are Paris, New York, Hong Kong, Cairo and Buenos Aires. I think these cities have widely varied and interesting cultures and lifestyles that I can use to influence the designs of the jackets.

These are photos from Hermes' Fall 2009 RTW collection. The collection features lots of jackets referencing flying (aeroplanes) and utilitarian purposes. They look really warm and comfortable, but stylish too, with big fur collars for warmth around the neck and bomber-jacket fit.

Again from a travel goods website, this is a head and neck pillow to wear on planes, trains, buses, so that you can sleep more comfortably whilst travelling.

This is a type of pouch thing that you can order from a travel goods website. It can be worn around the neck or waist, underneath clothing, and holds anything that needs to be kept safe, like passport, money, credit cards, license, etc.

These are some more hiking/outdoor adventure jackets.

They all have high collars and look padded and comfy. They are also all in earthy, outdoorsy colours, to suit the environment they are worn in.

This is a drawing of a hiking jacket, showing the way the functions needed for hiking have been incorporated into the design of the jacket. I like the idea of vents and different areas that can open up, altering the function from something to keep you warm to something that lets air in to cool you down.