Thursday, August 27, 2009

After brainstorming some ideas about the possible function/context for the tailored jacket, I am thinking about the idea of travel as its function. Initially I was just thinking of the more obvious functions associated with travel, (handy pockets for passport, wallet, etc. comfortable to wear in different climates and on different methods of transport). Another idea I was contemplating was the idea of taking a particular lifestyle and its daily routines and determining the functions required from this.

Another point I was thinking about was whether or not the function had to be a practical, purely physical function, or if it could be more of a conceptual function. By this I mean the function could be something that gives the wearer a certain feeling, such as comforting them, being a more mental function rather than utilitarian.

The more I've thought about it, the more I am interested in both of these directions, and so I've tried to find a way to combine the two. I think that the idea of travel has practical functional needs as well as being a comforting prospect. I believe it is a comforting prospect because it is a way to escape the constraints of daily routines and a stressful lifestyle. The jackets designs could stem from the different places that a person could escape to.



Monday, August 10, 2009

welt and jet pocket




technical report





These are photos of the jacket I am using for my Technical Report, were I will be looking in detail into the way the tailored jacket has been constructed and the reasons behind the methods that have been used.

I chose this jacket to use because I thought it could be interesting to look at a double-breasted jacket and see how the construction would differ to other single-breasted jackets.

Some of the other main features to look at in detail are the jet pockets, shoulder pads, lining method, as well as all of the different materials that have been used inside the jacket (between the lining and self wool fabric) and for what reasons they have been used.

shawl collar





These images are from the second class exercise we did, drafting and sewing the shawl collar. The process wasn't too different to drafting the collar and lapel, but it was made a lot trickier by changing the draft so that we could later add in a jet pocket. This required changing the darts and making a really strange looking pattern piece, which once again I found confusing until I actually put it together. This was quite a bit more challenging than sewing the first collar, but I'm pretty sure I understand it now. We also changed the hemline and added in a side panel, which eliminated the side darts.